05 – Betanzos to Bruma

Betanzos – Bruma is one of the most beautiful paths in Camino Inglés. Nice landscapes and almost none civilization. But it can be tricky!

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June 8th, 2016. In the previous day we had visited A Coruña. It was raining, but luckily it stopped at the end of the day. So, this was the most difficult path to organize. First, we had many italians in the albergue, that were used to hike and also were leaving the albergue at around 6:30 – 07:00. (i learned a lot with this italians!). We also left at 7:15, and catched some fog during the next 2 or 3 hours.

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Betanzos – Bruma was a challenge.

  • First: we were like 35 pilgrims for only 22 beds in Bruma albergue.
  • Second: we would have a difficult climbing when arriving Bruma.
  • Third: almost of the path is rural. You won’t see many persons. You will find nice landscapes, but no persons. No bars. No restaurants. Ok. Perhaps 1 or 2 (maximum) in the 29km of the path. We were heavier because we were carrying more food for the day.
  • Fourth: distance. Too many km.
  • Five: we would have sun and hot during the day.

 

Note: In Bruma, there are 2 ways that converge. The one that comes from Betanzos and the one that comes from A Coruña. So, we had 35 pilgrims in Betanzos and we didn’t know how many would arrive from A Coruña. And the alternatives in Bruma aren’t much. Only one private hostel in O Méson do Vento that is 2,5km away from the public albergue. Grrr…!

Neverthless, this path was one of the most beautiful ones of the Camino Inglés. Hard? Yes. But you will find silence and nature all over the place.

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Between Betanzos and Presedo. Distance: 12,5km

We thought in dividing this path in 2: 12,5km to Presedo and then 15km to Bruma. But we left the Betanzos albergue around 7:15 and we arrived Presedo albergue at 10:00. The distance was 12,5km. Too soon to arrive and we found the cleaning lady still cleaning the albergue. So, we decided to go to Bruma even if we weren’t expecting to find a place.

In this path you will find nice landscapes and nice forest tunnels. The path is easy and very pleasant to walk. With sun!

Let me divide in half the path between Betanzos and Presedo. The first one, from Betanzos to O Rombo and from this to the Presedo albergue. After we leave the Betanzos albergue you will be leaving Betanzos in a climbing. Not hard, but it goes up a little. You will find the “pilgrim” in the photo, indicating the way, just on the top of a hill. You then walk till you pass the highway bridge and then continue to O Rombo, where you will find a nice place: a path that is divided in left/ right (see photo below). Please go RIGHT!

From here to Presedo albergue is a quick step. You will find peaceful forest, paths and small villages. Don’t count on restaurants or bars or anything like that. You will not find it! Even in Presedo. In Presedo, you will see the albergue sign. But the albergue is around 400m away. And then, you will have another 400m to go back to the Camino path. So, if you are willing to go to the albergue, we will have to walk 1km extra. GREAT!

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Betanzos to O Rombo
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O Rombo to Presedo Albergue

Presedo albergue is situated in the “middle of nowhere”, just next to a church and cemetery. Place to eat? No! At least you have a kitchen. But yo use it, you must be carrying your food. You will not find anyplace near to buy it.

From Presedo to Bruma, the path is beautiful. Forest, grass, silence. But you have an huge climbing till you arrive to Vizoño cross.

In the next photos i show you the path, from Presedo albergue to Bruma, and then some subdivisions of that same path. When you arrive to Casa Julia, you will have a great view of a hill. Yes. When you look at that hill you will see what you will climb. Yes. You have to climb it to the top! 

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The way between Presedo albergue and Bruma albergue
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Between Presedo albergue and Leiro
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Between Presedo albergue and Leiro 2
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Between Leiro and Casa Julia (last bar till Bruma)
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Between Casa Julia and Vizoño cross
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Between Casa Julia and Vizoño cross (huge climbing)
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Between Casa Julia and Vizoño cross (huge climbing)

Some of the photos of the way between Presedo albergue and the Vizoño cross.

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This is how the hill will like after Casa Julia
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Hardest climbing

At last, to end this extensive post, just have to talk about the last km, from Vizoño cross and Bruma albergue. My memory will record this last distance as a little painful. Too much hot. It was around 2pm. The landscapes along the way were beautiful. Perhaps one of the most beautiful paths of the Camino Inglés. But the climbing and the heat and the backpack were now limiting the walking. The GPS was saying that the end was near, but the path was always going “left”, “right”, “left”, “right”, and we couldn’t see the albergue. Finally we arrived the albergue, around 2.30-3pm and we got the LAST 2 BEDS available. Luck was on our side!

The albergue is a great place. Doesn’t have too much space. The kitchen is ok, but not a very fancy thing. You can cook there. When we arrived, we had a bath, changed our clothes, washed and dried the clothes in sun and the i was very happy when the man responsible for the albergue gave me his bike to go to the supermarket in Méson do Vento (2,5km away). I did the Portuguese Camino on bike in 2014 and 2015 and this was my first time going on foot, so i loved riding a bike! Also it prevented me to walk an additional 5km to buy food. THANK YOU!

Some of the photos of this last part.

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The last km between Vizoño cross and Bruma

 

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